By Aggrey Nshekanabo
Growing up around River Kyambura and grazing my dad’s goats, it never occurred to me that this would be a tourism hub that everyone in the community would be proud of. And, the main restaurant of Kyambura Gorge Lodge is housed in the former coffee factory of Kyambura, where my dad was one of the pioneer staff in 1970 where he worked as a coffee Weighting Scale Man.
When I showed him the pictures of the place he exclaimed; “Eshi Abajungu bakatushereka Obwengye! Fakarimba nibagihinduramu ekintu ky’omuhendo kityo ky’oburambuzi” meaning; “These whites are really skilled! They can turn anything into something precious and touristy”
The former coffee factory main building whose construction started in 1967 and was completed in 1970 has been redesigned to host the main restaurant and lounge, an expansive world class kitchen, the operations office and bar area with exclusive assorted premium drinks. It is a rustic look crafted from locally available materials. The master craftsman has deft hands.
A westerly extension seats majestically to give guests to this lodge an endless view of Queen Elizabeth National Park as the sun goes home beyond Lake Edward. On right, a giant fig tree stands tall to proclaim the power of creativity invested in this place with as little disturbance to mother nature as possible.
And then the former factory Manager’s house down the seating extension has been turned into the coffee roasting house that is managed by the women in the community, as part of the company’s way of giving back to the community. The lounge has the coffee roasted by the women. I was made to understand that from planting to harvesting and roasting is all managed by the women from the community around the lodge. I am so taken by this community partnership that the lodge has intentionally undertaken.
It could be the reason and much more that the clients love this lodge. Nearly 90% of the lodge staff are from the community and trained by Volcanoes, the company behind the lodge. In fact, across the river, the lodge has a community training centre. This gives the lodge indigenous identify and the people have a personal relationship with it. They have been part of its building and its curating.
With a guide, a former hunter (derogatively mentioned as a poacher), Girivasi gives us a tour down the valley with the authorisation of the resident Manager. I have known Girivazi since I was a little kid. He takes down the gorge and there, my river still roars and much more. We enter the gorge with my guests with Girivazi ahead. The guests need walking sticks. The walkway is impeccably designed to ensure that you maneuvour the gorge with less effort. A bridge has been purposely built to cross over River Kyambura.
It is here that the magic of Kyambura Gorge starts. The roar of the river is so enchanting and I get ensconced in it. This was Kyenkobe, a place of baboons. The evening has already set in and so, we did not get to see the baboons jumping about save for a few colobus monkeys that are late to go to the tree tops for a night lap that are still jumping about. The waters hitting the rocks give away a misty feel. Nature truly preserved for generations. I am deeply in love with the place that raised me up. It is a sweet jungle.
The marshes of Omumashaka have been restored and some of the plant and animal species that were long forgotten have been rejuvenated (wanted to say resurrected). It is now animal and plant galore. I also understand that the lodge through a trust is steadily recovering the land that borders the gorge from the locals. However, I was assured by, Mr. Filbert Nabimanya, the Resident Lodge Manager that community members have access to the buffer zones for medicines and firewood. And the community is happy.
According to Mr. Nathan Kwikiriza, Kyambura Gorge Lodge has really supported the community especially through the coffee project that is solely working with women as a means of empowering them. But also, the lodge has provided employment to young people. He said that they are first trained before being employed.
“The impact of the lodge is immense. They buy most of the foodstuffs from us on top of providing jobs for some youths. There has been interest in conservation by the community because they see the benefits which, we never saw in the past” Mr. Kwikiriza said.
The magic of the lodge is in its iconic location; on the border with the park with great sunrises and sunsets and conservation efforts especially for the chimpanzees and restoration of the Kyambura Gorge. But also, the accommodation spaces are designed to perfection yet, most of the materials used are sourced from the community. I couldn’t have enough of the place and I have another date to take in this place and get immersed in my childhood once again.
Aggrey is a travel writer based in Kampala and team leader at Kyambura Safaris & Naalya Motel
anshekanabo@gmail.com/aggrey@kyamburasafaris.com
Tel: +256775 414 596
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